I have been out and about in Barcelona pretty much since I got here. Out of the hotel in the morning and returning maybe for a quick change of clothes for dinner or maybe not. Finding myself being more of a tourist here. The first couple of meals here had me wondering what all the hype was about about Catalonian cuisine. But I am now way back on track. Not that I didn't have a few good things in those first couple of meals, but I have hit the mother lode recently. Had a great lunch in Sitges yesterday at a restaurant recommended by my friend and client Steve Wood, a Spanish wine fan, from a blog that I have referenced for a few of my other great meals, this meal was about paella. Seafood paella! I should mention that I was staring at the sea as at ate my seafood paella, and I should also mention that it was spectacular. Perfectly cooked rice, full of flavor and fresh seafood. A great salad, some croquettes and some mussels rounded out the meal as well as a little cava!
Sitges is a perfect little seaside village about 45 minutes by train south of Barcelona. A perfect day trip for many and I took a chance on it also. A cool and very cloudy day ended up providing me with some of my favorite images from the whole trip. Three of them are posted below. Spent the day walking around, enjoying the town and taking some pictures. Caught the train back in time for a late dinner.
Through Steve's recommended blog, and confirmation from the New York Times, we decided to hit a touch more upscale tapas bar called Tapas C24. Upscale only in food, it was a hoot to wait, watch and then eat. Packed till we left at about 11:30, this place provided the best food yet. Fresh fried sardines were great, the potatas bravas were amazing, the McFoie slider, hum, yeah that was great, a salad that was okay, and the best bite of the night was a mozzarella, jambon and truffle grilled sandwich. OMFG!!! Three more please...
We ended up sitting next to a gal from Boston and her Barcelonian boyfriend and got a great rec for lunch today. After dinner, and having watch from across the bar these two drunk guys hit on these two Scandanvian woman that we met while waiting, we got a drink with the two woman and had a great time at another place down the road and away from the obnoxious guys.
Today was my chance to finally hit the la Boccaria market. A marked change from the markets I saw in Vietnam, this one was clean and very easy to breath in. The seafood area was, well, very fresh and easy to breath in. We got a bite to eat at a tapas place in the market call El Quin. After we finally secured a seat, we had a delicious meal of roasted razor clams, shrimp in a ajuillo sauce, potatas bravas and fresh anchovies in vinegar. Awesome lunch. Spent the rest of the day walking the narrow walking streets of Barcelona. Headed to dinner soon. More tapas...
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
It's A Small World After All
Adjusting to life in Barcelona has been easy. I must say that a nice glass of wine and a small plate of olives and cheese is a good thing. Flying here made me think about how big this world is. And at the same time, how small it is. Leaving Saigon and flying over Cambodia, just out side of Pakistan and all the conflict past and present in both of those countries. Then over tigers and vegetarians while flying over India and up the Persian Gulf to Qatar. Leaving Qatar took me over the middle east, Turkey, Greece and Italy before landing in Barcelona. All the history of all those countries and yet I can fly over them all in a matter of hours. It made me wonder what was happening in daily life in each one of them. What do their markets look like. I guess a few more trips are in order.
First, I just walked around the city. Awesome! What a cool place. Soaking it all in not really taking that many pictures. Had dinner at a restaurant that was a mix of Catalonian, Cajun and, ready for this? Vietnamese. The history of this place is a weird story but the short of it is a teacher from Spain, teaching architecture at Tulane in New Orleans met a Vietnamese student there, who later became a chef. They kept in touch and when the professor moved back to Spain they opened this place called Me, Vietnamese for mother. Pretty good, green papaya salad rocked, fish croquettes were great. Steak was okay and the swordfish was good.
Today just brought being a tourist. Went to the Sagrada Familia church by Gaudi. Holy cow! What a place. I wasn't that psyched to go but I was soooo glad I waited in that line and saw it. Pictures do not do it justice. Then off to a late, for Americans, 2pm lunch of some tapas and wine down some back alley. Then hit up the Picasso Museum. Pretty cool also. Lots of his early work and a lot of history I didn't know about him. Did a little window shopping just wandering back to the hotel. It's 8:45 pm here and off to the Barcelona Jazz Festival and then a late, or normal here, dinner.
Maybe some pics tomorrow... Adios!
First, I just walked around the city. Awesome! What a cool place. Soaking it all in not really taking that many pictures. Had dinner at a restaurant that was a mix of Catalonian, Cajun and, ready for this? Vietnamese. The history of this place is a weird story but the short of it is a teacher from Spain, teaching architecture at Tulane in New Orleans met a Vietnamese student there, who later became a chef. They kept in touch and when the professor moved back to Spain they opened this place called Me, Vietnamese for mother. Pretty good, green papaya salad rocked, fish croquettes were great. Steak was okay and the swordfish was good.
Today just brought being a tourist. Went to the Sagrada Familia church by Gaudi. Holy cow! What a place. I wasn't that psyched to go but I was soooo glad I waited in that line and saw it. Pictures do not do it justice. Then off to a late, for Americans, 2pm lunch of some tapas and wine down some back alley. Then hit up the Picasso Museum. Pretty cool also. Lots of his early work and a lot of history I didn't know about him. Did a little window shopping just wandering back to the hotel. It's 8:45 pm here and off to the Barcelona Jazz Festival and then a late, or normal here, dinner.
Maybe some pics tomorrow... Adios!
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Final Day In Vietnam Pretty Close To Perfect
Last night took us to a great noodle shop here in Duong Dong. So good in fact, that we asked about coming back today to photograph them making noodles. Finally, I get to shoot a real noodle maker. Dumpling making in Hoi An was okay, but this was looking picture perfect. We needed to be back at 4 in the afternoon. Done! I wasn't missing this.
That meant that Zoom and I were heading out early to get up to the north shore of the island. In all we put about 80km on the bike and I bet 75 of them were on pot hole laden dry dirt roads with wood bridges that had planks missing and no side rails. Just by riding I haven't been that dirty in a long time. Add the heat and humidity and I'm sure I was lookin' good! Followed the coast hugging road through the small town of Cua Can, home of the scary wooden bridge, and then on up the coast to Ganh Dau. Stopped for coffee in this cool one horse town and met the woman who owned the shop. She sat with us and of course Zoom and her hit it off. Next thing I know Zoom, this woman, her husband and I are headed down some sidewalk/trash chute through a bunch of lean to's, to look at a lot for sale for Zoom. The lot didn't pass the test and if Zoom would have thought it did, I was going to have to put an end to that one.
Next thing I know we are at the bottom of the hill in a home/restaurant that was owned by the couples parents, to check on their 7 month old son. Well the back of this place had a huge window and a table overlooking the water. In fact the house hung out over the water. Well, while looking out to the fishing boats, we noticed the next door neighbor was dumping out two or three 50, yes, 50 quart pots of steamed crabs onto his dock to cool. Can you see where this is going? Yes, an early lunch of fresh caught and just steamed crab. Just throw your shells out the window. Beer and rice completed the perfect, unexpected lunch. Oh yeah, only 180,000 dong, or about $9. Nice!
Great ride back. We were advised to go back the way we came because of construction on the mountain roads. They don't construct roads here like the US. Let's just leave it at that. Even Zoom, who rides her motorbike everywhere, vacations and all, was scared of the one bridge. I have some video of other bikes going across that that I will figure out how to post once I get back to St. Louis.
So after a coffee back in town, we headed to Van Ky's. A Chinese noodle shop that is considered the best noodles on the island, according to a few random locals. We arrived with a 9 kilogram well of flour on the back table and 40 duck eggs get mixed in. Some salt, some water and some secret water. We are off and running. This is a picture perfect back kitchen in a real Vietnamese restaurant catering to locals only. As the only foreigner, I was a bit of a novelty the night before. Anyway, with a lot of help from nieces and nephews, the noodles get kneaded, rolled and cut into three different shapes. Long flat noodles, long round noodles and 3"ish squares for wontons, homemade wontons. Loved shooting here! Loved it!!!! A few, very quick pics are below.
Not sure what tomorrow morning will bring photo wise, if anything. We checkout at 1pm for a 2:30pm flight that will take me to Saigon, where I will have to say goodbye to Zoom :-(, and then to Qatar, change planes and on to Barcelona. Hello Catalonia! Hello Jenny!
That meant that Zoom and I were heading out early to get up to the north shore of the island. In all we put about 80km on the bike and I bet 75 of them were on pot hole laden dry dirt roads with wood bridges that had planks missing and no side rails. Just by riding I haven't been that dirty in a long time. Add the heat and humidity and I'm sure I was lookin' good! Followed the coast hugging road through the small town of Cua Can, home of the scary wooden bridge, and then on up the coast to Ganh Dau. Stopped for coffee in this cool one horse town and met the woman who owned the shop. She sat with us and of course Zoom and her hit it off. Next thing I know Zoom, this woman, her husband and I are headed down some sidewalk/trash chute through a bunch of lean to's, to look at a lot for sale for Zoom. The lot didn't pass the test and if Zoom would have thought it did, I was going to have to put an end to that one.
Next thing I know we are at the bottom of the hill in a home/restaurant that was owned by the couples parents, to check on their 7 month old son. Well the back of this place had a huge window and a table overlooking the water. In fact the house hung out over the water. Well, while looking out to the fishing boats, we noticed the next door neighbor was dumping out two or three 50, yes, 50 quart pots of steamed crabs onto his dock to cool. Can you see where this is going? Yes, an early lunch of fresh caught and just steamed crab. Just throw your shells out the window. Beer and rice completed the perfect, unexpected lunch. Oh yeah, only 180,000 dong, or about $9. Nice!
Great ride back. We were advised to go back the way we came because of construction on the mountain roads. They don't construct roads here like the US. Let's just leave it at that. Even Zoom, who rides her motorbike everywhere, vacations and all, was scared of the one bridge. I have some video of other bikes going across that that I will figure out how to post once I get back to St. Louis.
So after a coffee back in town, we headed to Van Ky's. A Chinese noodle shop that is considered the best noodles on the island, according to a few random locals. We arrived with a 9 kilogram well of flour on the back table and 40 duck eggs get mixed in. Some salt, some water and some secret water. We are off and running. This is a picture perfect back kitchen in a real Vietnamese restaurant catering to locals only. As the only foreigner, I was a bit of a novelty the night before. Anyway, with a lot of help from nieces and nephews, the noodles get kneaded, rolled and cut into three different shapes. Long flat noodles, long round noodles and 3"ish squares for wontons, homemade wontons. Loved shooting here! Loved it!!!! A few, very quick pics are below.
Not sure what tomorrow morning will bring photo wise, if anything. We checkout at 1pm for a 2:30pm flight that will take me to Saigon, where I will have to say goodbye to Zoom :-(, and then to Qatar, change planes and on to Barcelona. Hello Catalonia! Hello Jenny!
Saturday, November 13, 2010
It Just Sank In, One Full Day Left In Vietnam!
I love this island! It has everything I was looking for on this trip and best of all, with great people. The beaches don't hurt either. Today started with the fish sauce factory and, well, they really weren't working much today either. It turns out they really aren't doing anything until late next week. But we did get a tour from the manager and were allowed to photograph what we wanted. The vats are pretty cool and everthing reminded me of a winery, except for the smell of course. How funny is that? Can anyone out there possibly imagine how bad I am jonzing for a glass of good wine? Even mediocre wine. This is quite possibly the longest I have gone without a taste of the grape since I started collecting the stuff about 20 years ago. Needless to say, I am looking forward to Spain, not that I'm not loving Vietnam. It has been a trip of a lifetime.
Oops, got sidetracked with the wine rant. After the fish sauce factory, we headed out for some coffee. Hit it off with the owner who lent Zoom some sunglasses for the day and off we went to the southern tip of the island to Sao Beach. 27 Km on the motorbike. Just sat at a table on the beach, had a few beers, took a few pictures, read a few pages and watched a few people. Few people on earth had a better day than me! Came back on the opposite side of island on a dirt road along the coast. Truly wonderful.
Heading out for noodles tonight. The seafood has been great but I need a change of proteins. Some pho bo or bun bo hue is in order for tonight. That's beef with noodles for those of you not keeping up.
It hit me today that there is only one full day left. Looks like we may take the bike up to the north part of the island tomorrow. 120 total km. Can't think of a better way to finish the trip, but you never know what else might come up. I'll just have to see what the morning brings...
Oops, got sidetracked with the wine rant. After the fish sauce factory, we headed out for some coffee. Hit it off with the owner who lent Zoom some sunglasses for the day and off we went to the southern tip of the island to Sao Beach. 27 Km on the motorbike. Just sat at a table on the beach, had a few beers, took a few pictures, read a few pages and watched a few people. Few people on earth had a better day than me! Came back on the opposite side of island on a dirt road along the coast. Truly wonderful.
Heading out for noodles tonight. The seafood has been great but I need a change of proteins. Some pho bo or bun bo hue is in order for tonight. That's beef with noodles for those of you not keeping up.
It hit me today that there is only one full day left. Looks like we may take the bike up to the north part of the island tomorrow. 120 total km. Can't think of a better way to finish the trip, but you never know what else might come up. I'll just have to see what the morning brings...
Friday, November 12, 2010
The Amazing Zoom
It 6:23pm as I start writing this entry. I'm at the Eden Resort on Long Beach in Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam. I'm sitting by the pool and beach and listening to a horrendous mix of Celine Dion, Norah Jones, Richard Marx and Kansas(?) or maybe Chicago. The sunset finished about 20 minutes ago. This day did not go as planned.
We got an early jump on the day, rented a motorbike and found the fish sauce company. They were very nice but today was a day off for everyone, so we will head there tomorrow morning. We headed to the local market, surprise surprise! A more rural or small town kind of market right on the water. This market broughtna good mix of everything. Live chickens and ducks, eggs, beef, pork, vegetables, herbs and, of course, fresh seafood. Some seafood I hadn't seen yet anywhere else. Diver scallops, shark, conch and sea urchin. More on sea urchin later. In some regards I am really done with markets but the new items were cool to see. I did take many pictures but I feel like I have already posted enough detail shots from the market. I am not sure if I made any good portraits in the market yet or not.
Too early for lunch, so we headed across the island to a fishing town called Ham Ninh. We headed up and over a mountain or two and come into a great little fishing town. It has a pier about a half mile long out to sea. Head out and back and then we get some lunch. Fresh grilled prawns and sea urchin. Shrimp was great and the sea urchin was pretty good I thought and Zoom thought it didn't have much flavor. We finished everything and then headed down a side street that Zoom had found while I was on the pier, and we were welcomed to use some community hammocks right on the beach. We hung there talking to locals for a while and then headed back. We both had gotten enough sun, so when we got back to the hotel, we decided to push the fishing boat till tomorrow or Sunday. A good thing.
After heading back to the rooms, Zoom knocks on my door with itchy skin and hives. Too much sun? Reaction to the sunscreen? Seafood allergy? She decides to wait an hour and rest. About 30 minutes later Zoom knocks on my door again and says she had to go to the pharmacy. Here, that is kind of a quick care place. They said it was a reaction to the sea urchin, which she had never had, and sent her home loaded up with drugs and she took a nap. I can't tell you how worried I was. Well I checked on her a couple hours later and the hives and itching were gone. She actually wanted to head out for dinner. Night market, here we come...
We had another great meal of grilled seafood. We stayed with the safe stuff this time. Grilled prawns, scallops and squid. Some rice and cold cold beer and Zoom had sugar cane juice. I think we are both craving some spicy beef noodles soon.
Now I think I have talked about how great this trip is, but most of the "great" part is because of Zoom. Her easy way and jump right in attitude has gotten us into many things that I wanted to do but wasn't sure if it would, or could happen. So far, we have gotten to do anything I wished for or though about. The amazing Zoom!
We got an early jump on the day, rented a motorbike and found the fish sauce company. They were very nice but today was a day off for everyone, so we will head there tomorrow morning. We headed to the local market, surprise surprise! A more rural or small town kind of market right on the water. This market broughtna good mix of everything. Live chickens and ducks, eggs, beef, pork, vegetables, herbs and, of course, fresh seafood. Some seafood I hadn't seen yet anywhere else. Diver scallops, shark, conch and sea urchin. More on sea urchin later. In some regards I am really done with markets but the new items were cool to see. I did take many pictures but I feel like I have already posted enough detail shots from the market. I am not sure if I made any good portraits in the market yet or not.
Too early for lunch, so we headed across the island to a fishing town called Ham Ninh. We headed up and over a mountain or two and come into a great little fishing town. It has a pier about a half mile long out to sea. Head out and back and then we get some lunch. Fresh grilled prawns and sea urchin. Shrimp was great and the sea urchin was pretty good I thought and Zoom thought it didn't have much flavor. We finished everything and then headed down a side street that Zoom had found while I was on the pier, and we were welcomed to use some community hammocks right on the beach. We hung there talking to locals for a while and then headed back. We both had gotten enough sun, so when we got back to the hotel, we decided to push the fishing boat till tomorrow or Sunday. A good thing.
After heading back to the rooms, Zoom knocks on my door with itchy skin and hives. Too much sun? Reaction to the sunscreen? Seafood allergy? She decides to wait an hour and rest. About 30 minutes later Zoom knocks on my door again and says she had to go to the pharmacy. Here, that is kind of a quick care place. They said it was a reaction to the sea urchin, which she had never had, and sent her home loaded up with drugs and she took a nap. I can't tell you how worried I was. Well I checked on her a couple hours later and the hives and itching were gone. She actually wanted to head out for dinner. Night market, here we come...
We had another great meal of grilled seafood. We stayed with the safe stuff this time. Grilled prawns, scallops and squid. Some rice and cold cold beer and Zoom had sugar cane juice. I think we are both craving some spicy beef noodles soon.
Now I think I have talked about how great this trip is, but most of the "great" part is because of Zoom. Her easy way and jump right in attitude has gotten us into many things that I wanted to do but wasn't sure if it would, or could happen. So far, we have gotten to do anything I wished for or though about. The amazing Zoom!
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Arrival On Phu Quoc Island
Got to Phu Quoc in 30 minutes from Can Tho. Although the floating markets and Qui's family were highlights of the trip, Can Tho itself was not. We got out a day early and happy that we have an extra day here on Phu Quoc. This is a resort island on the upswing. Lots of hype but it hasn't landed yet. There is a lot of construction and more resorts are on the way. I'm glad I'm here now before the eminent explosion of people.
Checked into the hotel and had a few beers by the pool and beach and then Zoom and I headed to the night market in the main town here. A lot of food vendors serving the freshest seafood around. Tonight we had grilled prawns, huge, head on and perfectly cooked, grilled diver scallops, grilled in the shell, awesome, grilled calamari, perfectly cooked and a seafood salad with carrot, taro, herbs, shrimp, calamari, lime juice and chili's. I'm sure there were some other thing in there too. All for 220,000 VN dongs, or about $11 including a few cold beers each. Delicious and stuffed.
Heading to bed soon. Fish sauce factory and fishing with a crab fisherman tomorrow. Can't wait!
Checked into the hotel and had a few beers by the pool and beach and then Zoom and I headed to the night market in the main town here. A lot of food vendors serving the freshest seafood around. Tonight we had grilled prawns, huge, head on and perfectly cooked, grilled diver scallops, grilled in the shell, awesome, grilled calamari, perfectly cooked and a seafood salad with carrot, taro, herbs, shrimp, calamari, lime juice and chili's. I'm sure there were some other thing in there too. All for 220,000 VN dongs, or about $11 including a few cold beers each. Delicious and stuffed.
Heading to bed soon. Fish sauce factory and fishing with a crab fisherman tomorrow. Can't wait!
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Only Thing Missing? Puppy Dog Tails
Got up very early to meet our boat for the ride up the Hau River, a finger of the Mekong River, to visit a few of the floating markets. Eight hours on the river was awesome. A small boat about the size of a John boat with a collapsable cover for the occasional drizzle. The markets were very cool. Different than my expectations, these vendors float out in the middle of the river and have a pole up in the air with what ever items they are selling hanging from it. We got up close and I was fascinated.
These are very small vendors getting by on on very little. Hard and long work are the norm. With all that, they are very hospitable. Many of the boats house entire families. Kids on board were more common than not. Laundry and dishes were being washed off the back of boats right in the river. I actually saw a man dipping his bowl in the river and drink. This river is also where toilet waste and trash are discarded. People think nothing of throwing their trash right in the river. As a whole the country is not the cleanest, but is one of the friendliest.
After the second market we headed down some canals, much narrower bodies of water, that brought us much closer to the real people living on them. We saw it all, kids, schools, workers, moms and infants, people washing in the water, clothes and themselves. Log bridges and pulley systems to move people and goods across the river. We stopped for an early lunch at a home stay house and cafe. Had some coffee and egg rolls and walked around the property. Fruit trees, farm animals and a woman making food in her rustic kitchen. All made for great images. It felt great to be making pictures again.
After the floating markets we had the opportunity to see my friend Qui Tran's (from Mai Lee Restaurant in STL) family here in Can Tho. Sorry to say it was a quick visit as Qui's grandmother was emitted to the hospital the night before. I hope she is doing well Qui. Although we didn't get to cook and share a meal, I did have a good time meeting aunts, uncles, cousins and taking a few pictures and especially talking with Qui's grandfather. What a great man! I even got a few hugs when I left.
That left dinner open and we jumped on the chance to try some Mekong Delta specialties at the best place in town to have them. So we dined on grilled snake and frog legs. Yep, that's what I said. Got to pick out our own snake, prepared and grilled whole and served to us in a coil on the plate, then cut into 2" pieces for eating. Although the flavor was very good, the amount of work involved for really so little meat, made it a dish that I don't want to have again. A funny aside, as the grilling was taking place, the server brought out the snake fat for Zoom because it is said to be good for a womans complextion and I got the raw pancreas as that is said to be good for back pain. Thankfully my back was doing just fine! Frog was good and the steak was, uhm, less than prime. The water spinach was great and the beer was cold.
Now off to the the airport for our final leg to Phu Quoc Island. More soon.
These are very small vendors getting by on on very little. Hard and long work are the norm. With all that, they are very hospitable. Many of the boats house entire families. Kids on board were more common than not. Laundry and dishes were being washed off the back of boats right in the river. I actually saw a man dipping his bowl in the river and drink. This river is also where toilet waste and trash are discarded. People think nothing of throwing their trash right in the river. As a whole the country is not the cleanest, but is one of the friendliest.
After the second market we headed down some canals, much narrower bodies of water, that brought us much closer to the real people living on them. We saw it all, kids, schools, workers, moms and infants, people washing in the water, clothes and themselves. Log bridges and pulley systems to move people and goods across the river. We stopped for an early lunch at a home stay house and cafe. Had some coffee and egg rolls and walked around the property. Fruit trees, farm animals and a woman making food in her rustic kitchen. All made for great images. It felt great to be making pictures again.
After the floating markets we had the opportunity to see my friend Qui Tran's (from Mai Lee Restaurant in STL) family here in Can Tho. Sorry to say it was a quick visit as Qui's grandmother was emitted to the hospital the night before. I hope she is doing well Qui. Although we didn't get to cook and share a meal, I did have a good time meeting aunts, uncles, cousins and taking a few pictures and especially talking with Qui's grandfather. What a great man! I even got a few hugs when I left.
That left dinner open and we jumped on the chance to try some Mekong Delta specialties at the best place in town to have them. So we dined on grilled snake and frog legs. Yep, that's what I said. Got to pick out our own snake, prepared and grilled whole and served to us in a coil on the plate, then cut into 2" pieces for eating. Although the flavor was very good, the amount of work involved for really so little meat, made it a dish that I don't want to have again. A funny aside, as the grilling was taking place, the server brought out the snake fat for Zoom because it is said to be good for a womans complextion and I got the raw pancreas as that is said to be good for back pain. Thankfully my back was doing just fine! Frog was good and the steak was, uhm, less than prime. The water spinach was great and the beer was cold.
Now off to the the airport for our final leg to Phu Quoc Island. More soon.
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Saigon Gets A Pass Despite Some Creative Lulls
Okay, the Hotel Majestic was majestic. That and meeting Philippe were the highlights of Saigon. Well, the Lunch Lady also. Had a leisurely day yesterday with a great lunch at the Lunch Lady. Thai noodle soup day. Awesome! Then a walk around the park in front of Independence Palace. Then back to the hotel just I time to beat the afternoon rain. Off to have some duck for dinner and in the room early.
Took the bus to Can Tho today. About four and a half hours from Saigon. The rain held off today and the sun actually showed itself this afternoon. Seems like a cool town on the river. A big river. The Hau River, a finger of the Mekong. Took a walk around town and up the river. Kind of touristy, but nice people all around. Just finished dinner by the river from some street vendors of a pretty darn good seafood and mushroom hotpot.
Have chartered a boat tomorrow to take us to a few floating markets and a fruit orchard. Should be pretty cool. Can't wait! Hope the weather cooperates and yes, there are life jackets.
Took the bus to Can Tho today. About four and a half hours from Saigon. The rain held off today and the sun actually showed itself this afternoon. Seems like a cool town on the river. A big river. The Hau River, a finger of the Mekong. Took a walk around town and up the river. Kind of touristy, but nice people all around. Just finished dinner by the river from some street vendors of a pretty darn good seafood and mushroom hotpot.
Have chartered a boat tomorrow to take us to a few floating markets and a fruit orchard. Should be pretty cool. Can't wait! Hope the weather cooperates and yes, there are life jackets.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Is The Market Tired Or Am I Tired Of The Market?
Let's just say "snail street" rocks! So good we are heading back tonight. Zoom's friend is going to join us. Snails, two different ways, chili garlic sauce and tamarind sauce, sauteed butter crab and grilled fresh "live until we grilled them" shrimp. Bread for dunking and beer.
Got up this morning excited to shoot and head to the Binh Tay Market way out in District 6. The sun was out and I felt like it was going to be the best day yet in Saigon. The market is in the heart of Chinatown and according to Saveur Magazine, one of the 5 great markets in all of SE Asia. It is bustling. This is a working market, not a market for tourists. This place is moving and shaking. This place stinks and is filthy. Real business is being done here, and this translates to no patience for foreign photographers. Everyone is the same. The stares aren't the "go home Yankee" kind, but "the get out of my way, I don't have time for this" kind. This and the feeling of most all market stalls are starting to look the same. My thought? Let eat some breakfast.
We find the hot food stalls and settle in for some bun bo hue. Maybe the best bowl yet. So spicy though I sweated through my shirt. A tad embarrassing, but hey, I won't see any of these folks again. The man serving us was very friendly and his family too. We were eating at his place. Headed back via the travel office where we bought our bus tickets for Can Tho on Tuesday and then walked around Saigon trying to find my creative energy. I think I am looking forward to getting out of Saigon. It is a bit of another big city. The food has been good, but the city uninspiring. Loved Hanoi, Saigon is just okay.
Also had to change hotels this morning. Found a great deal online for the Hotel Majestic. The classic French Colonial hotel in Saigon. I just needed a few nights of great service and unlimited hot water. I am well aware that this doesn't fit the theme or budget for this trip, but it ain't happening in the Mekong Delta. I don't think Zoom is complaining either. I found out after the fact that her room at the last hotel had no windows.
For those keeping score and stats, sun this morning, rain this afternoon.
Got up this morning excited to shoot and head to the Binh Tay Market way out in District 6. The sun was out and I felt like it was going to be the best day yet in Saigon. The market is in the heart of Chinatown and according to Saveur Magazine, one of the 5 great markets in all of SE Asia. It is bustling. This is a working market, not a market for tourists. This place is moving and shaking. This place stinks and is filthy. Real business is being done here, and this translates to no patience for foreign photographers. Everyone is the same. The stares aren't the "go home Yankee" kind, but "the get out of my way, I don't have time for this" kind. This and the feeling of most all market stalls are starting to look the same. My thought? Let eat some breakfast.
We find the hot food stalls and settle in for some bun bo hue. Maybe the best bowl yet. So spicy though I sweated through my shirt. A tad embarrassing, but hey, I won't see any of these folks again. The man serving us was very friendly and his family too. We were eating at his place. Headed back via the travel office where we bought our bus tickets for Can Tho on Tuesday and then walked around Saigon trying to find my creative energy. I think I am looking forward to getting out of Saigon. It is a bit of another big city. The food has been good, but the city uninspiring. Loved Hanoi, Saigon is just okay.
Also had to change hotels this morning. Found a great deal online for the Hotel Majestic. The classic French Colonial hotel in Saigon. I just needed a few nights of great service and unlimited hot water. I am well aware that this doesn't fit the theme or budget for this trip, but it ain't happening in the Mekong Delta. I don't think Zoom is complaining either. I found out after the fact that her room at the last hotel had no windows.
For those keeping score and stats, sun this morning, rain this afternoon.
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Today On The Travel Channel... No Reservations And Boatbuilding With Noah
Hey, anybody know what that big ball of bright light hanging in the sky is? Cancelled my ticket with Noah.
Arrived in Saigon last night and headed out for dinner as soon as possible as it was already 8:45. We decided to walk a few blocks up to the big Ben Thanh Market because It was close and Zoom had been there before and knew there were a lot of good food options. When we got to the market we walked along one of the outside rows that had a lot of food stalls and very crowded. As we stopped to look and evaluate the overwhelming amount of choices, Zoom hits me in the arm and says "Isn't that the guy from the Anthony Bourdain show you had me watch?". We were pretty sure, and he was eating alone, so we sat down a few seats away at a long table and started to order some food. I wasn't going to say anything but Zoom started right in, god bless her! A minute later we had all moved together and spent the next hour and a half talking about St. Louis, Vietnamese politics, Tony, and how the health department in the US cities actually make our food worse. Incredibly interesting and exciting dinner. What are the odds of a chance encounter like that halfway around the globe? Random luck has found you again Goldman!
Now a brief explanation, for the non foodies reading this, the gentleman is Philippe Lajaunie, owner of Brasserie Les Halles in NY, and Anthony Bourdains ex boss and current friend. He lives in NY, is French American with a heavy French accent and is passionate about all things SE Asian, especially Vietnam, among many other things. So when Bourdain wanted to come back to tape a show in Vietnam, one of his favorite places in the world, he asked Philippe to accompany him along the way. It is this single episode that had me planning a photo trip to Vietnam.
Now I know a few of you have warned me to be brief, but there is another quick amazing part to today, at least for me. We had lunch with the Lunch Lady! This woman can make soup!!! A street vendor off the beaten path, amazing vat of goodness, picturesque corner and very nice woman. Heading back there on Monday without a doubt. Now everyone needs to go to iTunes and download No Reservations, Season 6, Vietnam: There's No Place Like Home episode. In this episode, you will find out about the Lunch Lady. You can also meet Philippe and experience my banh mi in Hoi An. Tonight, at Bourdain's suggestion, we are headed to "snail street" for dinner. I have certainly done more than try and recreate that show on this trip but I'm glad I included them.
Can we talk about the rain again? Chased us back inside this afternoon. Gotta run and see if Noah still has room for me!
Arrived in Saigon last night and headed out for dinner as soon as possible as it was already 8:45. We decided to walk a few blocks up to the big Ben Thanh Market because It was close and Zoom had been there before and knew there were a lot of good food options. When we got to the market we walked along one of the outside rows that had a lot of food stalls and very crowded. As we stopped to look and evaluate the overwhelming amount of choices, Zoom hits me in the arm and says "Isn't that the guy from the Anthony Bourdain show you had me watch?". We were pretty sure, and he was eating alone, so we sat down a few seats away at a long table and started to order some food. I wasn't going to say anything but Zoom started right in, god bless her! A minute later we had all moved together and spent the next hour and a half talking about St. Louis, Vietnamese politics, Tony, and how the health department in the US cities actually make our food worse. Incredibly interesting and exciting dinner. What are the odds of a chance encounter like that halfway around the globe? Random luck has found you again Goldman!
Now a brief explanation, for the non foodies reading this, the gentleman is Philippe Lajaunie, owner of Brasserie Les Halles in NY, and Anthony Bourdains ex boss and current friend. He lives in NY, is French American with a heavy French accent and is passionate about all things SE Asian, especially Vietnam, among many other things. So when Bourdain wanted to come back to tape a show in Vietnam, one of his favorite places in the world, he asked Philippe to accompany him along the way. It is this single episode that had me planning a photo trip to Vietnam.
Now I know a few of you have warned me to be brief, but there is another quick amazing part to today, at least for me. We had lunch with the Lunch Lady! This woman can make soup!!! A street vendor off the beaten path, amazing vat of goodness, picturesque corner and very nice woman. Heading back there on Monday without a doubt. Now everyone needs to go to iTunes and download No Reservations, Season 6, Vietnam: There's No Place Like Home episode. In this episode, you will find out about the Lunch Lady. You can also meet Philippe and experience my banh mi in Hoi An. Tonight, at Bourdain's suggestion, we are headed to "snail street" for dinner. I have certainly done more than try and recreate that show on this trip but I'm glad I included them.
Can we talk about the rain again? Chased us back inside this afternoon. Gotta run and see if Noah still has room for me!
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